Most tourists stick to big towns. Meanwhile the real Masurian atmosphere hides in small villages. 1. KRUTYŃ — kayaking capital, wooden cottages, agritourism. 2. SPYCHOWO — village among pines, beach on Spychowskie Lake. 3. JEZIORANY (Lake Wirowiec) — wooden Masurian architecture, 1782 church. 4. PRANIE (Lake Pranie) — K. I. Gałczyński's forester's lodge-museum. 5. STARE JABŁONKI (Ostróda) — Hotel "Anders" 5★ with spruce SPA. 6. ŁUKNAJNO — village near swan reserve (UNESCO Biosphere). 2000 mute swans in winter. 7. NIDA — village on Nida river, wooden cottages. 8. RYDZEWO (near Giżycko) — wooden cottages, carriage rides, Warmian cuisine. In all: agritourism 80-150 PLN/night, regional cuisine, 1950s atmosphere.